Rogue River Trail (Illahe to Marial)

Rogue River

Distance: 16 miles one-way

Total Elevation Gain: 1000 feet

Directions: From Gold Beach, follow Jerry Flat Road/545 east along the south side of the Rogue River. Continue straight after 10 miles and the road becomes NF-33. In 24 miles, the spur road to Big Bend trailhead is on the right. 

Hiking above the Rogue

Native iris

The Rogue River Trail follows Southern Oregon’s most famous wild and scenic watershed for nearly 40 miles. The lower half, from the Big Bend Trailhead near Illahe to Marial Trailhead, cuts straight through the Wild Rogue Wilderness. Gorges and waterfalls, meadows and forests, flowers and wildlife, and, of course, ticks and poison oak, await the hiker.

Oaks in early spring

One of the most fascinating qualities about the Rogue River is how much it and the area around it changes with so little change in elevation or other such factors. Parts of the trail cross steep-sloped oak savannah, where ancient gnarled trunks filter the view of the river below. Later, views yield dry forests of madrone and chinkapin, seeming an alien forest to the Pacific Northwest. Then the trail dives into a narrow side-ravine, where western red cedars, sword fern, and think brush remind hikers they’re not as far from the coast as they might think. 

Flora Dell Falls

Waterfalls, such as Flora Dell Falls (four miles from the trailhead) pour down some of the creeks creating these ravines, further enriching the experience. 

With the diversity of the terrain also comes diversity of wildlife. Many species of waterfowl, bald eagles, hawks, kingfishers, osprey, deer, and black bears are but a small sample of the wilderness’ denizens a hiker might likely spot. 

Falls from Inspiration Point

The variety also brings potential hazards to the hiker. Black bears present a hazard to a backpacker’s food cache, and thus food should be tied up in a tree or locked in a bear box (several exist in camping areas throughout the trail). Rattlesnakes sunbathe in the trail’s hot, dry areas during the warm season. Poison oak grows nearly everywhere – in places it could even be considered old growth, with vines thicker than a quarter’s diameter twisting high up into the trees. Ticks lie in ambush in the brush and long grass. Some may carry lime disease. 

Inspiration Point, a couple miles before reaching Marial, one of the more picturesque points of the lower trail. A sheer basalt cliff drops about 100 feet to the water below, and a series of waterfalls cut through the cliff on the opposite side of the canyon. This serves as a great turnaround point for an out and back trip. But for those adventures unwilling unable to turn back, the short hike to Marial and from there the remaining 24 miles of the upper half of the Rogue River trail lies onward.

Mule Creek Canyon near Inspiration Point

Cape Perpetua

Directions: To the Visitor Center, drive south from Yachats on Highway 101 for three miles. Turn left at the sign for the Perpetua Visitor Center.

This area lacks only dunes in some of the best the Oregon Coast has to offer – 27 miles of trails connecting tide pools, waves spouting out of narrow basalt crevices, rainforest, extensive historical sites, and a view towering 800 feet above the ocean.

The hub of this state park’s trail network is the Visitor Center, among other things a miniature museum of the Alsea People, the Native Americans who had called the cape their home.

To the north of the Visitor Center, two main hiking routes exist: one, curving to the right and following a pristine coastal creek, leads to Oregon’s largest spruce tree. An ancient colossus, it stands

elevated upon its own roots, creating a dark hollow beneath itself for children to crawl through.

The other route, veering left, climbs north to the crest of the cape for sweeping, tree-filtered views of the ocean and a great spot for picnicking.

Both routes have driving options, as well, off Road 55 just north from the Visitor Center on Highway 101. The first right off 55 yields a campground, and a much shorter version of the Giant Spruce Trail. The first major left yields the viewpoint.

Cape Cove and Captain Cook trails head off west from the Visitor Center, crossing under the

highway in a culvert. Tide pools line the western side of Captain Cook trail, and a southern extension of the loop overlooks Thor’s Well. At mid to high tide, the surf squeezes through subterranean cracks to geyser out of the Well in impressive jets of white.

The Cape Cove Trail heads north, crosses a bridge, and becomes the Trail of Restless Waters. It loops to an overlook of Devil’s Churn, a dark basalt cleft where the ocean surf rages in the manner of its namesake.

To the east and south of the Visitor Center, the short 1-mile Discover loop leads to Cook’s Ridge Trail, Cummins Creek Trail, and Gwynn Creek Trail, all much longer than the other trails and offering a journey through old growth spruce and coastal rainforest.

Perpetua invites everything from a roadside stop to a weekend-long adventure. 

Upper Imnaha River

Imnaha Falls

Distance: 7 miles one way

Directions: From Halfway, Oregon, follow Hells Canyon Scenic Byway (Highway 86) east for about 9 miles. Turn Left onto NF-39/North Pine road. Follow the main road for about 23 miles. Turn left at the sign for Imnaha River Campgrounds (NF-3960). Follow the road about 9 more miles to its end at Indian Crossing Campground. The trailhead and day use area is just before a bridge in the campground. Overnight campsites are on the other side of it.

Goldenrod

Perhaps my favorite river that I’ve hiked along, the Imnaha originates on the rugged slopes of the eastern Wallowas and flows down mountain valleys and steep canyonland to the Snake River. The trail headed along its upper length also serves as a gateway into the Eagle Cap, Oregon’s largest wilderness.

The journey begins at Indian Crossing campground, partly shaded by ponderosa pine, and follows the river at a slight distance on a wide, comfortable trail. After passing a pack station and crossing into the wilderness, the trail narrows, becomes rocky, and forsakes the trees for an old burn. Goldenrod, Indian Paintbrush, and other perennials bloom profusely here in midsummer.

Blue Hole

The route soon intersects a .2-mile spur trail to Blue Hole, a calm pool exiting a steep rocky gorge.

Back on the main trail, the brush thickens. In places, the alders, willows, thimbleberries, and other understory, amped up on the extra light provided by the burn, crowd the trail so thoroughly that feet, legs, and arms become invisible in a tangle of green and brown.

The brush thins and then fades altogether on a talus slope, the river beautiful below and the rocks blazing underfoot in midday sun.

Talus slope above Imnaha River

The brush returns as the trail continuously dips up and down to avoid the multitude of cliffs and pinnacles, yielding a vast range of environments – hot barren rock, unburnt forest pockets, meadows, and soggy creek shores.

At one point, the trail crosses a creek that’s been recently dammed by a beaver (or beavers). Young saplings have been gnawed down in the immediate area to build a miniature, though impressive, feat of natural civil engineering. On two sides, a dam of earth and wood rises knee-high, and the middle of the beaver pond reaches approximately six or seven feet deep. Log crossing is the best route across – to both avoid getting excessively muddy and to not intrude on the beavers’ home turf.

Along with the sporadic mountain views far up the valley, perhaps one of the most impressive sights along the trail is Imnaha Falls. One hundred yards down an unmaintained spur path through young pine trees, the river concentrates into a narrow channel and thunders over a five-foot drop, then boils down through a water-polished rock gorge. In late summer, steelhead can be seen jumping the falls (some more successful than others).

Channel below Imnaha Falls

This section of the trail ends at a fork seven miles from Indian Crossing, allowing for further adventuring. The trail to the right follows the North Fork Imnaha River to 8600-foot Tenderfoot Pass. The trail to the left crosses the North Fork (on the only large bridge I’ve seen so far in the entire wilderness, so don’t get used to it) and heads along the South Fork Imnaha River to flat open meadows, beautiful creek gorges, and stunning mountain views. It eventually climbs Frazier Pass, the location of an old mining operation (still privately owned), and drops down to the Frazier lakes.

Other forks of the Imnaha exist and are quite spectacular to explore, but are best discovered by one’s own adventures.

Off-trail adventuring

Divide Lake and Mount Yoran

Mount Yoran rises above Divide Lake

Distance: 8 miles out-and-back

Minimum Elevation: 5330 feet

Maximum Elevation: 6390 feet

Total Elevation Gain: 1200 feet

Directions: From Oakridge, head east on Highway 58 for about 1.5 miles. Turn right at the sign for Hills Creek Dam. You should now be on Forest Service Road 21, known also as Hills Creek Road. In a half mile, continue straight as the road becomes Forest Service Road 23. You’ll be going to the left of the reservoir. In about 19.5 miles, the road (now gravel) will pass a trail sign for Hemlock Butte. Follow the road a couple hundred yards further to a spur road on the left. Here is a loop for parking at the trailhead.

The trail begins in full sun, the product of an old sub-alpine logging. Earlier views of snow-crowned Diamond Peak and brief glimpses of Mount Yoran’s ancient volcanic crags tease of the journey’s destination.

Notch Lake

Soon the trail enters thick mountain hemlock, where currant and beargrass bloom in July and pungent mountain huckleberries fruit in August. In less than one mile, the trail passes picturesque Notch Lake, a great first backpack for families with young children. 

Shortly after, the trail forks – straight heads north for Vivian Lake. Turning right onto the Mount Yoran Trail continues the route to Divide lake. Now the trail steepens as it climbs a ridge. At the crest, views abound. The bulk of Diamond peak towers off ahead to the right, its slopes plummeting to a treed valley below. To the left, Salt Creek Valley cuts through the Western Cascades. The ridges beyond it dip in places just enough to reveal parts of the Three Sisters and Broken Top off to the north. 

The trail passes directly below Mt. Yoran

The trail continues a pattern of following the ridge crest, diving off to the side amongst lupine-covered slopes, and climbing back up again, until it crosses the talus fields of Mount Yoran’s base and slightly dips down to the shores of Divide Lake. 

Blue-green in color, the small lake could seem unremarkable, if it didn’t have three peaks surrounding it. 7100-foot mount

Yoran rises out of its north shore, an unnamed sister peak on its east, and further away to the south Diamond Peak reaches out of the trees. 

Yoran's sister peak

Camping is an option here, at least two hundred feet from the water, though summer weekends often find the lake somewhat crowded. 

For a 1.5-mile round side trip, the trail continues past a couple smaller lakes to a junction with the Pacific Crest Trail and, just before it, a reward of an impressive view of the eastern side of Diamond Peak Wilderness. Mount Yoran and its sister peak can also be climbed from Divide Lake, in theory, though the route is somewhat sketchy. My friend has done it. I have not.

For more High Cascade adventures, check out my Cascade Crest page.

Diamond Peak